Archive for ‘Food’

November 28, 2010

Inheriting the Family Cookbook

My husband comes from a big family, on his mom’s side. All of his mother’s family, the Livingoods, are from Postville, IA and have lived there since time immemorial. His mother has six siblings and all of her siblings have over two (and often over three) children. Many of those children, though younger than Aaron, have already started large families of their own.

This is far outside of my experience. My family is smaller and less concentrated in one area. When I first met his family, back in our (relatively) early days of dating, he tried to prepare me for how the large size of his family and the small size of their community. I couldn’t have been more underprepared. On our first trip back, we got a little lost, so we pulled over and ask a passerby for directions. She took one look at my husband and said, “Oh, you’re a Livingood, aren’t you?” He replied yes and they briefly traced their family interactions, before she gave us directions. Let me tell you, this has never happened to me or my family, at least not for a generation or two.

When Aaron and I went to Lincoln, NE (his parents’ adopted city) for Thanksgiving, I learned a little bit more of the Livingood history. In the living room, I found a small booklet entitled “The Livingood Family Cookbook.” It was professionally published in 1987 by a local historian. At the beginning of the cookbook, it detailed the Livingood family history, from my husband’s great-great-grandfather, Edwin R. Livingood and Mathilda Livingood. They were a typical Iowa farm family, in that they had 10 children and each of those children married young and had between four and thirteen children of their own. By 1942, Edwin and his wife had 105 (!) children and grandchildren. My husband’s branch of the Livingoods descended from the fourth son of Edwin, Cecil. It looks as if Aaron’s grandfather was the second son of Cecil.

Following the family history, there are a series of pictures of Aaron’s extended family. I can see great-aunts and uncles, with their families, as well as his grandfather when they were younger. I can see the resemblance of Cecil (the great-grandfather) to Gilbert (the grandfather). In person, I’ve seen the resemblance of Aaron to his grandfather. Looking at the pictures is like seeing the slow distillation of my husband’s physical qualities, over time. The only experience that I have had close to this for my own family was when, at age 19, I helped to sort my grandmother’s pictures after she passed away. I found a picture of her when she was about 19, away from home for the first time. We were identical, down to a similar haircut and a similar way we held our bodies.

My mother-in-law was so pleased that I was interested in the cookbook that she let me take it home. I’m interested to review the recipes, just to see how the family marks their culinary history. The food is simple and basic, a remnant of times when you cooked with what you have. (After reading the amazing United States of Arugula by David Kamp, I can place this type of food into the some of the same American foodways that James beard was intent on preserving.) I don’t know if I’ll ever cook any of these recipes. I am more thankful for the photographic evidence of at least a part of my husband’s family.

October 5, 2010

Things I Learned from Picking Apples

During this past weekend, Aaron and I visited our good friend Laurel and her husband. These two awesome people have moved back to Wisconsin from Arizona and we have been lucky enough to see them four times in the past year, which is way better than 2 times in the preceding five years.

While we had a glorious time throughout the whole weekend, watching a play in the cold, attending Zumba class, and visiting a local craft fair, my favorite activity was my very first trip to the apple orchard. Even though I’ve lived in the Midwest for 18 years now, I have never in my life visited an apple orchard. I don’t know what I’ve been waiting for all this time.

In our short time at Door Creek Orchard, we traveled up and down rows and rows of apple trees, heavy with fruit. The branches were bowed from the heft of the Haralson, Cortland, Empire, and Golden Delicious apples. (I love these varietal names.) The staff encouraged us to taste apples before we bought, so we picked apples fresh off the trees and started eating. There is something that is so simple and beautiful about eating an apple straight off the tree, on a day when the wind is just cold enough to sting.

Unfortunately, most of my pictures did not turn out well, because my new camera didn’t handle the overcast sky’s light. So, you should visit Laurel’s recently re-vamped blog to see some truly great pictures that her husband took. You should also celebrate her triumphant return to blogging, because the world needs more blogs like Simple Spoonful.

November 27, 2009

Dark Days #2: Thanksgiving

Once again, I’m cheating. I never considered myself a rule breakin’ rebel, but here I go again.  For this week’s Dark Days challenge, I’m highlighting the components of my Thanksgiving meal that are local. I don’t think any one dish is 100% local, but each dish has local ingredients.

So, without further ado, my super-cheater version of local Thanksgiving:

Cranberry Sauce from an old Cooking Light recipe

Ingredients include:

local cranberries from Wisconsin
local honey from Ames Farm
local tap water :)
juice from 2 non-local oranges
non-local allspice
non-local cinnamon stick
non-local brown sugar

An interesting note about the spices.  Both were categorized as local, because they were  distributed by a Minnesota company. But the food was sourced from foreign countries. (Mexico and the Philippines, I believe.) While I understand the importance of supporting local businesses, I don’t know if its fair to categorize a food product as local if the food still uses an airplane to get to the consumer. However, it does make me wonder about the potential gradations of local eating and consumption.

Chile Roasted Acorn Squash

local acorn squash from the farmer’s market
non-local brown sugar
non-local canola oil
non-local canned chipotle chiles in  adobo sauce
non-local kosher salt

This one – not so local, except for the ginormous squash.

Sautéed Carrots with Sage from Cooking Light

This dish was our most local and also my favorite, I think. This was super easy to make and had very interesting flavor combinations.

margarine — non-local
olive oil — non-local
carrots — local from the Saint Paul Farmer’s Market
sage — local from our co-op
kosher salt — non-local

Green Beans with Bacon & Shallot dressing from Cooking Light

This one, not so local. Most of the ingredients were from out-of-state. However, the bacon is from Beeler Farms and it is the greatest bacon. If you live in the Upper Midwest, I highly recommend it.

After all those delicious sides, and a stuffing to boot, we still had our turkey.

Back in late September, we decided to go with an all-natural, locally farmed turkey, just to see the difference. While we were picking up groceries at the Farmer’s Market, we decided to reserve a 10-12 pound turkey from Bar 5 Farms.  Our little orange ticket told us that we had to pick it up from the Minneapolis Farmer’s Market between 9-12 on November 24.

Well, my mom’s in town and November 24 came and went.  We shopped, ate out, and generally had fun on November 24.  When it was November 25, I panicked.  We could get a conventional turkey, but there was no way we could find a good locally raised turkey.  Luckily, I had enough presence of mind to call the farm, just in the off-chance they still had my turkey. Lucky for me, they would be at the St. Paul Farmer’s Market from 10-4, which perfectly fit our schedule. So, disaster averted. As an added bonus, I found my carrots, some kohlrabi and some fresh garlic bread, which we’ll have tomorrow night for dinner.

The turkey, by the way, was delicious and definitely worth the drama.

So that was my somewhat local Thanksgiving. How was yours?

November 19, 2009

Dark Days #1: Squash and Pasta

Inspired by last weekend’s experimentation with Butternut Squash and Greens over Pasta, my husband and I decided to modify this recipe to make it more local.  Now, I should mention that I am following my co-op’s definition of local. When they say that a product is local, it comes from Minnesota or one of our border states: Iowa, Wisconsin, North Dakota, or South Dakota. Depending on the producer’s location in these states, this is a bit farther than the 150 miles proposed by (not so) Urban Hennery.  However, I am sticking with it, because darn it, good produce  is hard enough to come by in the winter. I’m such a cheater.

So, my modified recipe now includes the following ingredients:

  • Acorn Squash purchased at the Minneapolis Farmer’s Market from a farmer in Brooklyn Center, MN
  • Garlic purchased at my co-op & labeled local
  • Onion purchased at my co-op & labeled local
  • Sage from RockSpring Farm in Decorah, Iowa
  • Elbow Macaroni from Dakota Growers Pasta Company, purchased at my co-op.
  • Red Pepper Flakes — crushed from a red pepper wreath we bought at the Minneapolis Farmer Market from a local grower
  • Olive oil — non local
  • Salt — non local
  • Pepper — non local

And that’s it.  I cut the Asiago cheese (from my half), because I’m unsure of the provenance.

Funny story about the pasta: While we were in the co-op, my husband and I wondered about the Dakota Growers Pasta Company.  I argued vehemently that they must grow the pasta, until my husband asked what tree elbow macaroni grows on. I imagine that it’s quite beautiful (and soggy). I learned from their website that they work directly with the wheat farmers. So there.

A note about my next week’s Dark Days post — my mother and my in-laws are coming in to town on Sunday and Wednesday, respectively. Since we’ll be entertaining, and eating out a lot, I’m going to post on Thanksgiving and highlight the parts of our meal that are locally and ethically raised and grown. 

Wait until you see our turkey

 

This post is part of the Dark Days Challenge to make 1 meal with 100% sustainable, local, organic and ethical foods.  Check out (not so) Urban Hennery to learn more about the Dark Days Challenge and visit other participants.

November 15, 2009

Me & The Oven

We don’t have the greatest relationship.  In fact, I’ve come to cooking pretty late, compared to most people.  When I was a teenager, I resisted all attempts to learn cooking, since it seemed too expected of me as a girl and future wife.  In my twenties, I fell in love and married a man who was an excellent cook, so I didn’t need to learn anything beyond the microwave.  Lucky me. 

These days, I realize that I want to learn how to cook.  I’ve always loved eating, so it seems natural to me (after 32 years) that I should know how to cook it well.  So, I’ve been subscribing to cooking magazines, accumulating cookbooks, and reading some cooking blogs. I also spent six weeks acting as the main cook in the house, while the husband taught some evening classes. And it’s all starting to rub off on me. 

In the past week, I’ve bought 3 very cool cookbooks: Vegan Soul Kitchen by Bryant Terry, Almost Meatless by Joy Manning, and How to Eat Supper by Lynne Rossetto Kasper.  Since buying them, I’ve been itchy to try a recipe or two. So last night, when our plans broke down, I decided to try something out of How to Eat Supper.  With our excess squash, I made Sweet Roasted Butternut Squash with Greens over Bowtie Pasta.

I don’t know if it’s the extra practice or the accessibility of this particular cookbook, but this was one of the first times that I’ve tried a recipe where everything worked like it should have.  The cooking time was exactly right, even with some squash and greens substitutions, nothing was burnt and it turned out wonderfully.  (Sorry, I was too busy eating to take a picture.)

I can’t quite describe the feeling of victory I felt when this relatively easy recipe turned out right.  It felt similar in some ways to writing a poem or making a collage, in that I had that sense of a flow experience.  It also felt like good stress relief after a busy week at work, which cooking has never felt like before. 

So, I think I’m going to continue to play some more and nail down this cooking thing once and for all.

November 6, 2009

Dark Days Challenge 2009-2010: I’m In!

I think I must be crazy.

After all, I live in Minneapolis, where it can get to be -40 for up to a week at a time.  Before windchill.  One of the most difficult things about winter here is that it feels like all of the good produce disappears. We’re left with watery yellow rocks that we call “oranges.” They’ve been shipped from South America and they taste like it. 

I know this, and yet, I also know that we have a pretty good local food chain here.  I know of lots of people who eat locally and eat well. (Maybe they are urban myths.) After shopping at my co-op all last winter, I’ve already spied the staples that are local.  Knowing this, I’ve decided that I want to participate in the 3rd Annual Dark Days of Winter Eat Local Challenge hosted by the (not so) Urban Hennery

Yep, I’m crazy.

Here are the rules: 

Between November 15, 2009-March 31, 2010, I will make one dish a week that focuses on Sustainable, Organic, Local, Ethical (SOLE) ingredients.  I will cook it, take pictures of it, eat it, and write about it on this blog. 

Here are my caveats:

  • I live in Minnesota.  It will be winter. Every single ingredient may not be local. In fact, I say now that I will definitely be using non-local oils and spices.  I may have to supplement with some processed (canned or frozen) foods, but I will do my best to choose foods that are made within 150 miles of my home. 
  • I will be freezing a lot of squash soup now.  This will count.
  • You may see a lot of pictures of eggs and toast, because I know they sell a good SOLE egg at my co-op and they bake fresh bread there, daily.
  • I may freak out and give up in February, but I will have made it to February.

So, this is my plan. Looking at the group of participants, there are not that many in the Midwest. I think we’re realistic, us Midwestern-ers.  Except for me, apparently, but I’m chalking that up to the Californian in me. 

I feel it important to mention that I am inspired by a certain friend who ran the lovely Simple Spoonful. She did this challenge last winter. Hint. Hint.

If you would like to participate in the Dark Days Challenge, click on the button in my sidebar or visit (not so) Urban Hennery.

 

July 28, 2009

Oh, Happy Day!

I just learned that my favorite food critic, Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl, is coming out with a new book.  (And she has a blog. Even better!) Grumdahl, formerly of the City Pages and currently of Minnesota Monthly, will be releasing Drink This: Wine Made Simple in November

November!  At least I have something to look forward to this winter.  In the meantime, here are three of my favorite Dara articles ever:

The Doughnut Gatherer

Intoxicating

Raising Cane

July 11, 2009

Adventures in Food

I have never been an adventurous eater.  Don’t get my wrong, I love food, but I tend to stick to the comfort-variety.  Throughout my life, I’ve turned up my nose at most “weird” things, which included mainly non-carrot vegetables and non-standard meats. Take me to an ethnic restaurant and I’m fine — I’ll try anything from Ethiopian to Tibetan food. But I’ll subtly (and sometimes not so subtly) work around the ingredients that I don’t like or recognize.

In fact, it has taken a rather dramatic shift in my food and eating habits to help me eat more vegetables.  A little over a year and a half ago, I began seriously reading literature on the politics of food, from Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle to the whole Michael Pollanbibliography.  Once I recognized the connection between my eating habits and the world, I’ve begun stretching my taste buds. We participated in a CSA last summer and we buy all of our food from our local co-op or the Farmer’s Market.  Now, I eat 5-8 vegetables and fruits a day and I try new veggies with relative frequency.  My new favorite is kohlrabi, discovered by my husband at the Farmer’s Market. 

Despite these recent gains, I’ve never truly trucked with the cutting-edge culinary crowd. Even after working at a culinary school for three plus years, I remain timid.  I was never the instructor who could judge Iron Chef-style competitions, because I would have had to eat frog legs or something equally strange and unsavory.  Now that I’ve overcome my vegetable fears, I feel ready to learn more about fine dining and even experimental dining.   I consider myself a foodie-to-be.

Enter my vacation to Cancun, Mexico a few weeks ago.  For much of the trip, I was my mother’s guest on what is called a “Fam” (or familiarization) trip.  These trips for travel professionals include free or discounted lodging at a resort, guided tours of a certain company’s properties, and celebratory dinners that show off the best of what the resort offers.  Yes, my mother has a very cool job and I am very jealous.

For this trip, we were hosted by the Karisma Hotels chain of resorts in the Rivera Maya. Every night we tried different foods that I normally wouldn’t touch, including tuna confit and esquites.  After we enjoyed the trip, we extended our stay at a different hotel, adjacent to another Karisma property called Azul Sensatori.  Once the organizers of the trip heard this, they offered us a once in a lifetime opportunity, an eight course tasting menu and wine pairing at their Sensatori’s signature restaurant, Le Chique.  Who were we to say no?

Le Chique is modeled after the Alinea / El Bulli style of cooking, molecular gastronomy.  In a nutshell, molecular gastronomes like to use the science of cooking to create totally different taste/texture experiences for the diner.  The recent popularity of foams in fine dining is an example of molecular gastronomy. I’ve never eaten one course, let alone eight courses, in this style of cooking.  For me, this was truly stretching my wings.  Since it wasn’t a la carte, I knew I would be confronted with something unique and out of my comfort zone and I resolved to eat everything.

Below are the courses, to the best of my recollection, with accompanying pictures. (You must excuse the quality of the pictures, because it was dark and there was a lot of wine involved. )

First Course:  Foam Melon Martini — served in the kitchen, in a champagne flute

sensatori 1

Second Course: Carrot-Ginger Coconut Soup (part foam, part cream), Liquid Olive, and lamb sandwich – three small bites, eatensequentially from right to left.  The best experience of the night was, by far, the liquid olive.  It was all of the flavors of olive without any of the associated meaty or oily textures.  It was like the essence of olive, exploding all at once.

sensatori 2

Third Course: Tuna Gel with Soy Sauce Foam, Wasabi Oil, and Jasmine Smoke — The food was plated on a shallow dish covered in film, with the smoke rising from a hole in the film. My mother and I hovered over the plate, sniffing the smoke for far too long.

Fourth Course: French Onion Soup Redux with chardonnay foam, Gruyere and Parmesan bubbles, and razor thin bread

Fifth Course: Tamarind Smoked Duck

sensatori 3

Sixth Course: Chilean Sea Bass with Pureed Plantains

Seventh Course: Three Takes on Rice Pudding — cracker, cream, and gel chunks

Eighth Course: Chocolate Truffles

The wines included Veuve Vernay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Moscato.

I learned that it wasn’t actually that difficult to eat everything, because I allowed myself to have an adventure. It was an amazing experience which pushed me to think more deeply about my food assumptions and beliefs.  In my non-adventurous, limited style of eating, I assume that every food has a fixed flavor and texture, which isn’t true.  For instance, I am not a fish person at all.  I don’t like the fishiness often associated with fish.  However, I ate a tuna gel and a sous-vide sea bass without any difficulty, because the fishiness was removed and what remained was sweetness and soft texture. 

I know that this was a once in a lifetime, truly decadent eating experience.  In my normal course of life, I wouldn’t have this type of opportunity.  But I wonder if I can use the experience to help me become more adventerous.  If I like tuna in this form, could I try it in another form?  If I think that a new food is scary, could I experiment and treat it as a new experience, rather than a thing to be feared?  With this meal’s experience, I feel like a small boundary has shifted for me.  You may not see me chowing down on mushrooms anytime soon, but I think I’m more likely to give them (and a lot of other things) a chance.

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